If you have noticed that there seems to have been a recent rise in the popularity of selvedge denim, the way you saw them in GQ Magazine just the other day, you would not be mistaken. Along with recent style resurgence from the forties and the fifties, new interest has been shown to selvedge denim particularly by brands from Japan, with their obsession for recreating perfect denim the way they were done originally in their own era. Then, when 3x1 denim opened and you could get the exact style you want, selvedge denim seems to be permanently back in the market.
There are many different terms being used interchangeably with selvedge including salvage, self-edge or selvage but it all means one thing. Selvedge is the fabric edge which is self-binding. The loom used to create this type of fabric is the shuttle loom and the fabric woven on it has a self-binding edge. Raw denim is not the same as 3x1 denim, since this refers to the method of weaving a fabric. On the other hand, raw denim refers to the way in which the fabric was washed.
Selvedge jeans by 3x1 give you the advantage of longevity and durability. This means that the jeans you pay for today have the potential to last for many more generations. The reason is that selvedge jeans are created with a special loom that produces finished seams that don’t unravel on their own. You can thus buy a pair of jeans and rest assured that it is meant to last if it has selvedge edges.
The most popular pair of selvedge jeans around the globe today have a red cast, are made with ten to twelve ounces of denim and a three by one right hand twill weave, so you don’t get cross hatches but rather, vertical slubs. This is the new language of denim according to Scott Morrison, founder of 3x1 denim.
There are a lot of advantages you get when you wear 3x1 jeans. The good news is that there are now stretch selvedge jeans which gives you even more options for the custom jeans you have in mind. Stretch selvedge allows shuttle looms to work with synthetic fiber. Even if stretch denim is primarily popular for the women category, Morrison believes that this will also be very popular among men in the coming days.
When you buy 3x1 jeans, you get cotton jeans made with the best quality. 3x1 denim is created on a strong, intense shuttle loom that creates cotton that breaks down slower than those made with weaker yarns. For wide-width, non selvedge denim, these are made on air jet looms that are on a projectile rapier. You get a price you can afford since this is a more economical, faster process with lower quality cotton.
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Denim with no selvedge edges uses pattern optimization so that there is hardly any fabric wasted. The reason behind this is that there is no need to preserve the self-edge side seam. Not so with 3x1 Denim, where only the highest quality is demanded and produced.